Brake caliper WILWOOD or Girling

I recently got a set of reman'd Girling calipers off RockAuto -- they fit perfectly.

I purposely upgraded my NB’s braking and suspension to race-ready standards because I commute… a LOT.

I have come to realize there are others on the road who are absurdly inept behind the wheel and want every tool at my avail to avoid them. I have fully adjustable Meister-R’s on all four corners and Willwood calipers in the front. I had to put them to the test when someone did a no-look lane change into my lane with ZERO clearance and I was required to stomp on the brakes to keep from hitting them. The Wilwoods earned their keep that night.

If you get a wilwood superlite caliper, the pads will be cheaper and are 20mm thick. They aren’t a top of the line caliper but should be more than enough. Also you can run endurance pads. I use raybestos st43 although those seem hard to get now. Pagid rsl29 or ebc sr11 will be endurance pads with similar or slightly less mu.

I have wilwood's forged dynapro 6 brake calipers and the pads wildwood suggest for that setup and I stop on a dime ngl but even when I had a stock FiST the braking never seemed to crazy tho

All brake components are already bought.

In the early aughts I scored a set of the Girling 54 calipers from a 16v and my dad and I rebuilt and painted them before installing in my first '84. I didn't upgrade the MC (didn't know better at the time) so the brake pedal travel increased but the braking improved so I kept the set up ... until the next annual MO state vehicle inspection where the car failed for excessive brake pedal travel The 9.4" set up went back on.

There’s two lines, as the caliper is split into two sections vertically. The top two pistons (inside and outside piston, directly across from eachother) are hooked up to one brake line, and the other line hooks up to the bottom chamber and bottom two pistons. If one brake line fails, you still have some brake pressure (the pair of pistons on the non broken line). Unfortunately, this means that only a pair of the 4 pistons will work with just one brake line (all abs cars). This would make your pads wear at a severe angle, and drastically impact your breaking performance. I’d definitely say just find some rebuild kits for your current calipers. It’s pretty easy and cheap.

I've recently upgraded to Girlng 60 calipers and feel a bit uneasy about the pad to rotor size difference. The discs on your car are 280mm. The Audi discs that the Girling 60 caliper came off of are 276mm but slightly thicker.

After getting vehicle to run under its own power once again, which is fantastic. I have no brakes. I've since gone gone in and torn down Front brakes completely, I've found right side metal line leaking. Also breaks & calibers had froze from lack of operation all these years. I'm Replacing all components for front brakes, except I'm rebuilding the girling calipers because they're practically $200 each and it cost 1/4 to rebuild the caliper.

On my '93 I think I've deduced it's the crappy Girling calipers' slide guide pins being worn and allowing for some play in the calipers or it's just a crap design.