Alternator OEM FORD or Duralast

OEM FORD Alternator

I can\u2019t make out the sound but once upgraded the alternator on my 29 roadster pu that had a late model bronco v6 in it and the darn thing sounded like I had a super charger with the whirling. Crazy sound but ran perfectly fine for as long as I had the truck (years).

Pros: ran perfectly fine
Cons: sounded like super charger
Vehicle: Ford Bronco
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OEM FORD Alternator
32carsandcounting
  • Warning light:
Rating 4.0

First gen Expedition- I'm not a Ford fan, but some of those old Expeditions were amazing. Definitely seem to be hit or miss, either bulletproof or a nightmare with no in between. My father had a 98 that he bought new and scrapped in 2019 with just shy of 500k miles, absolutely beat the living shit out of that truck and it just wouldn’t die, only ever needed an alternator, 2 shifter cables, a brake hose and 2 ignition coils.

Pros: bulletproof, wouldn’t die
Cons: hit or miss
Vehicle: Ford Expedition
Mileage: 500000 km
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OEM FORD Alternator

2021 Got the extended warranty, one year after the standard warranty went, so did my alternator. Extended warranty covered it.

Pros: warranty covered alternator
Vehicle: Ford Bronco
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Duralast Alternator

2004 Limited with 310000 miles alternator went out so went to local service shop . They were able to get it in and repaired next morning other shops in the area are a week backlog.Parts we're 310.00 (Duralast alt.and Gates belt)

Pros: repaired next morning
Mileage: 498896 km
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Duralast Alternator

I’ve never had an issue with a Duralast starter or alternator. However, honestly, I probably wouldn’t put one on my Lexus. I’ve generally shoved them into cheaper and simpler cars.

Pros: no issues with Duralast
Cons: wouldn't put on Lexus
Vehicle: Lexus IS
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Duralast Alternator

I started having problems like my alternator was going bad again so I replaced it with a duralast alternator part number DL2618-6-11 because I had a lifetime warranty on it and it still didn't fix it so I was thinking it may be a wire shorting out was playing around with the wires that go to the alternator and the plug on the back that goes from the alternator to the PCM and it's started charging again ( I guess it finally connected the electricity) so I replaced the plug on the back of the alternator. It fixed it work for about a month then it happen again check charging system battery light on and battery going dead so I was done. I took it to the Ford place they wanted to replace the other side of the PCM to alternator connector which they did and the alternator so I got another AutoZone lifetime warranty alternator and when they did that they said everything is charging and running like it is supposed to be but your PCM is still throwing the battery light and check charging system because your alternator is charging at 14v and for the PCM to cut the light off it needs to be at 14.6 v. So they wanted to put another alternator on it because they said the alternator from autozone the voltage regulator wouldn't let it go to 14.6 volts. The car runs and drives and doesn't have any problems I just hate the light being on to be honest I have spent hours on the Internet trying to see if it's just these AutoZone alternators that aren't letting it get to the volts the PCM wants or not haven't found anything.

Cons: insufficient voltage output, battery light remains on
Part number: DL2618-6-11
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Duralast Alternator
Sir_J15
  • Warning light:
Rating 1.0

Duralast are shit alternator. See it time and time again people buy them and have more problems afterwards.

Cons: poor quality, causes problems
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